Get Out & Garden!
by Holly Boettcher
Growing in a Cold Frame
If there is any way I can possibly extend the growing season, I will find a way! We all know how therapeutic gardening is. That is where my cold frame comes in. There are numerous instructions if you Google “Do It Yourself” (DIY) cold frames, so I’m not going to discuss how to build one. Although my husband used some 2x6s to build the frame, and corrugated polyvinyl roofing material for the cover. I have even seen straw bales used to make a well insulated frame!
If you are looking for a way to jump start gardening this spring, read on!
Location, Location, Location
Choose an area in your yard or alongside a building that faces the south. Your cold frame should catch the morning sun with no blockage from surrounding trees. Since a cold frame is not heated, it is important to keep the cover clear of autumn leaves and winter snow (pictured) so you can make the most of the solar warmth.
Starting Seeds Earlier in Spring
You can get a head start on spring planting by directly sowing seeds into your cold frame. Cool weather loving plants will do well. Consider onions, parsnips, mustard greens, turnips, carrots, cabbage, peas, cauliflower, beets, collards, and of course, kale or Swiss chard.
Spring Transplants
Several weeks before the last spring frost, I plant tomato, pepper, and eggplant (seedling plants but not seeds) in the cold frame leaving them in their containers. Once the weather is favorable for planting outside, you can move them into your garden.
Extending Harvest Until Late Fall
The most successful use of my cold frame has been when I planted cool weather loving crops in early September such as kale, spinach, Swiss chard, and varieties of garden lettuce. Be patient, because as the days get shorter, it takes longer for the seeds to germinate.
Monitor the Temperature
This important, final step will assure your success. The cover on your cold frame needs to be easy to open and shut. Keep a close watch on the weather forecast. As a rule of thumb, the cover should remain closed if the temperature is below 50 degrees. Although the plants may survive a mild frost, once the temperatures drop below 40 degrees they aren’t going to grow, and I’m too impatient for that! And you need to make sure if the temperature rises back above 50 degrees, the cover is opened or even removed. Which reminds me, do not forget to monitor the soil so it doesn’t dry out. I have found it necessary to water more frequently when using my cold frame.
Good luck and happy growing!
Vegetable Gardening in Containers
Spring Transplants
Several weeks before the last spring frost, I plant tomato, pepper, and eggplant (seedling plants but not seeds) in the cold frame leaving them in their containers. Once the weather is favorable for planting outside, you can move them into your garden.
Extending Harvest Until Late Fall
The most successful use of my cold frame has been when I planted cool weather loving crops in early September such as kale, spinach, Swiss chard, and varieties of garden lettuce. Be patient, because as the days get shorter, it takes longer for the seeds to germinate.
Monitor the Temperature
This important, final step will assure your success. The cover on your cold frame needs to be easy to open and shut. Keep a close watch on the weather forecast. As a rule of thumb, the cover should remain closed if the temperature is below 50 degrees. Although the plants may survive a mild frost, once the temperatures drop below 40 degrees they aren’t going to grow, and I’m too impatient for that! And you need to make sure if the temperature rises back above 50 degrees, the cover is opened or even removed. Which reminds me, do not forget to monitor the soil so it doesn’t dry out. I have found it necessary to water more frequently when using my cold frame.
Good luck and happy growing!
Shrubs for Privacy
There is almost nothing more important to me than privacy in my yard. I have been called a “tree hugger” more than once for nearly going overboard planting shrubs and trees to create a natural or green privacy curtain. Who wants to dine in their backyard patio with the neighbors watching what you are eating (or what kind of wine you’re drinking for that matter). Four times in my life, I’ve taken a “blank pallet” (a completely barren lot or property) and landscaped and planted until I transformed it into a peaceful backyard resort. You can choose to either build or install fencing or go the natural route like I did. By renovating a space that was empty and dreary, I now feel like I’m on vacation in my own backyard. Wouldn’t you like that same peace? Let me tell you how to get it!
Determine Your Goal
If my end result is privacy for my hot tub, dining space, or even an area to read or soak up some sun, I stand in that space, and visualize where I want the solitude. Next, I jot down a sketch of where I want plants to block the view.
Another benefit of this plan is you are providing a habit for songbirds and other wildlife! Flowering shrubs, such as serviceberry, can provide nectar for butterflies and native bees. Others produce berries which become a food source for birds in the winter.
Plant Selection
If winter privacy is not your top priority, add shrubs that are deciduous (have leaves that drop in the fall). Do you want your backyard hideaway to be obscure year-round? If so, select shrubs that are evergreen.
My Top Picks
Follow labels for zone information, to learn if they are sun lovers or shade lovers. My all time favorite is the arborvitae which has five different species and can reach forty to sixty feet tall. They are hardy, fast growing, and beautiful! Others include cedar and juniper. Hydrangea is my favorite flower-bearing shrub, which has over 20 options to choose from in different sizes, shapes, and gorgeous colors with huge flower globes. Some hydrangeas can reach up to 15 feet tall! Other options are viburnum, serviceberry, and lilacs.
Soil Test
For optimal growth, shrubs need healthy soil, so don’t forget a soil test. The pH (potential of hydrogen) is measured on a scale that ranks the basicity or acidity of substances to one another. Testing will help you learn what amendments may be needed to help your shrubs thrive. Water them well after planting, and then give them a drink once a week if there is no rain.
The lazy, hazy days of summer will be here before you know it. So, why not take a look around your own backyard to determine where you can add privacy and beauty.
Making a Flower Garden
Have you ever admired your neighbor’s yard because it has fantastic curb appeal? A colorful yard full of flowers with butterflies flitting in and out of the blooms is quite an eyecatcher! Did you know this is the perfect time to consider this rewarding project? Here are some tips to get you started on creating a spectacular flower garden in your own yard.
Begin with a Plan
Select an area with good drainage. Since it’s still early spring, decide if the location is sunny or shady by studying the amount of sun it receives. Assess possible lack of foliage on deciduous trees, because if they’ve dropped their leaves, more sun will filter through that you would not have during the summer. Next, either use an organic method to kill the grass by covering it with cardboard, black plastic, or newspaper (use small rocks or some sod to keep the material from blowing away). The cardboard also helps to amend the soil as it breaks down. Or you can burn some additional calories by removing the sod with a spade. Next, either turn over the soil with a shovel or use a rototiller.
TIP: Use a garden hose to lay out the shape of your flower bed. By making an asymmetrical shape (rather than a circle or square) you will get a more professional look.
Sun Lovers
Here are hardy perennials that are my favorite picks: coneflowers, sedum such as Autumn Joy, Black-eyed Susans, daylilies, and grasses such as Karl Foerster. And since perennials may take several years to spread out, annuals can be used to fill in extra space. Examples of sun-loving annuals are petunias, salvia, lantana, and snapdragons. Tropical canna or elephant ears (which are bulbs) also love full sun.
Shade or Part Shade Lovers
Try perennials like hostas, astilbe, goat’s beard, and some ferns (ferns can be either a perennial or annual). To make your flower garden look lush and full, add some annuals such as begonia, celosia, cosmos, coleus, and impatiens. Always check labels on all plants so you understand how much room they need when fully mature. Draw up a planting design. Tallest plants should be placed either in the back or in the center.
Time to Plant
Wait until at least Memorial Weekend before you begin planting. Set the plants out in their containers to get a final visual of how they will look. Now gently coax each plant from their container and begin planting. Make sure you press the soil firmly at the base so there are no air pockets remaining. When finished, give a thorough watering and continue to water about one inch per week if Mother Nature doesn’t help out.
Mulch
Finish with a layer of mulch. Don’t allow mulch to touch the plants, because that can encourage disease.
Planning now for a flower garden will give you many years of enjoyment! So, what are you waiting for?
Crazy for Coneflowers
I must admit I am head over heels for coneflowers! Since one of my other articles this month is about making a flower garden, I thought this would be a great topic to share! Let’s take a few minutes to learn about using coneflowers, and why they are a favorite in my gardens.
About Coneflowers
There are 13 species and over 200 cultivars of the coneflower. The scientific name is Echinacea. It is a genus of herbaceous flowering perennials which belong to the daisy family. Coneflowers prefer full sun, however, they will tolerate part shade without complaining. I have some in my flower beds such as the Pink Double Delight, which only grows to 12 inches tall and shows off in “pom” type blooms. Another is the Eastern Purple Coneflower, which is native to our region and can grow up to five feet tall and spread easily by reseeding itself.
Why I Love Them
They are so beautiful and come in many colors such as tangerine orange, rose pink, gold, coral, cherry red, White Swan, deep orange, and Echinacea Hot Papaya (pictured in my garden)! Coneflowers have a long bloom time which begins in late June. They continue looking great until early September. Coneflowers attract butterflies and are bee-friendly too. Any summer day wandering through my gardens, the coneflowers are always abuzz with many pollinators and hummingbirds. Anything that provides a nectar source gets a high five from me! Coneflowers are a great pick if you are looking for a plant to naturalize a large area. We use them for cut flower arrangements at our business or to give a whimsical look as table centerpieces. They can be used for medicinal purposes such as herbal teas. Studies have found using herbal remedies such as Echinacea for the common cold shortens the duration and makes the symptoms less severe.
Planting Instructions
Since there are many cultivars ranging in different heights, it is important to read labels, so you don’t plant them too close together. Plant them behind shorter plants if you are using them in a flower bed. And remember the golden rule: plant them in sets of one, three, or five to get a professional look. Some of my favorite companion plants to the coneflower are daylilies, Russian sage, Autumn Joy Sedum, and Rudbeckia, commonly known as Black-eyed Susan.
Easy Care
During the first year, as they are becoming established, water them at least once a week if Mother Nature does not provide at least one inch of rain per week. After that, they will do fine without regular watering. Coneflowers tolerate heat and can do quite well in drought conditions, although I like to keep mine watered to keep the blooms looking fresh longer.
If you are looking for a versatile perennial that continues to be a showstopper year after year, check out the coneflowers coming soon to your local garden centers!